On display in the Winter Solstice Exhibition at the Griffin Museum of Photography, Winchester, Massachusetts, from December 8 through January 1.
Blackstone Canal, Uxbridge, Massachusetts – 2016.
One of my favorite books of all time was Time and Again, by the great Jack Finney. The book tells the story of a young man who with a bit of assistance from the government (clandestine of course) was able to engage in time travel. No equipment required though. All he had to do was make himself open to the experience. Time passes but it doesn’t really pass. It is still there if we know how to relate to it. The book’s star was residing, at the request of his coconspirators, at Manhattan’s famous Dakota building. After quite some time trying to figure out how to be open to the experience, and many false starts, he simply woke up one morning, went outside and it was the later 19th century. He had taken up the past’s invitation to visit.
It reminded me of what I try to see when visiting a place with the past. I do wish I could visit it for real (of course, I’m sure I would have no idea how to cope but what fun is it to think about that). Sometimes you can find a door or at least a window to the past, an object, an artifact, a story, a book. Walking along what was once the Blackstone Canal ins Uxbridge, MA it’s easy to hear history’s rumblings. In the Blackstone Heritage Corridor Park you’re walking along the towpath after all. A team of mules pulled the canal boats along the journey from Worcester to Providence. If it’s quiet, it is easy to ponder what it was like when the towpath was actually in use, in the early 1800’s. For me, one of the windows into that state of reverie are the intense reflections that can be seen there on a calm day.. They are intense enough to be disorienting and I offer you a small collection here. I resisted the temptation to turn them upside down. You’re welcome.
From art back into history and the environment….
As we dig into the story of the Blackstone River and Canal a bit more, it becomes that much more interesting. The Canal ran parallel to the River for most of the River’s length and only actually utilized the River as a resource in those places, few in number, where the River was navigable. The Canal ran from Worcester, MA to Pawtucket, RI and was a key means of transportation at a time when transportation was more than a bit challenging. However, the Canal itself only operated for a relatively brief period of time, from 1828 till 1848, twenty short years. Canal transportation was disrupted as a technology by the new high tech rage: the railroad. The trains began to run from Worcester to Providence in 1835 and in just a few short years the Canal was no longer financially viable. That is a relatively short life cycle for such an expensive engineering project, costing at it’s construction $750,000. The Canal fell into disrepair in relatively short order.
One of the best places to see the Canal is the River Bend Farm, in Uxbridge, Massachusetts, now operated by the National Park Service. When we first visited, the still water was striking, offering some of the best forest reflections I’ve ever seen.
It is really quite stunning all along the old Canal. It is also, however, quite pristine, leading to the assumption that it had been spruced up by the National Park Service. That’s true, but there’s more to the story than that. The Canal had been repurposed in the early 20th Center, converting it into a rather significant source of stored energy, a giant battery if you will. About one mile north of the visiting center is a Dam diverting water from the River into what was at that a time a rebuilt Canal. The height of the walls was increased to allow for the storage of more water. Moving further south from the Visitor’s center, about one mile, one finds evidence of it’s alternative purpose.
These turbines are part of a complex power generation scheme designed ultimately to run the Stanley Woolen Mill in Uxbridge.
Water from the Canal ran directly into the factory to turn the looms and related machinery.
It must have been an impressive project, suggestive of some very visionary thinking, along with some very deep pockets. The Mills continued on at this location until 1988, a much longer run than the Canal. The story is an interesting tale of entrepreneurship. Entrepreneurs often create products or services that are intended for one thing, but end up being far more valuable for another. Think iPhone turns into camera. Certainly not what I would have predicted. The Canal was intended for transportation but it ended up facilitating the industrial revolution in the United States. This of course involved massive exploitation of resources resulting in wealth creation, jobs, and environmental damage. Note that this source of energy was, in fact, renewable. That’s good right, but in fact damming a river even for useful power also has its consequences. The owners of the Mill created a giant and now beautiful battery, but the truth remains. There’s no free lunch.
The Blackstone River project continues though I have no idea where it will lead. Researching an idea and then getting out in the field is definitely an exciting experience. The more I find out about the River then more intriguing it becomes. It makes up in Worcester, the industrial heartland that it helped to create. This view of Beaver Brook is less than half a mile from my home.
The white object in the upper left is a mattress. Fairly random I know. Beaver Brook joins forces with Middle River about two miles away, to give genesis to the Blackstone itself. As you can see, there isn’t terribly much left that is natural about Beaver Brook. Where we’re standing is where the Brook comes out from below ground. It is tunneled in for around a mile, reappears in Beaver Brook Park off Chandler Street in Worcester and then disappears again. It would seem that civilization has trumped nature, in this case. That is the story here I think, the tension and synergy between nature and civilization writ large.
As I said in the previous post, the Blackstone is one of the most polluted Rivers in the U.S., which is saying something. It was indeed the home of the industrial revolution and it’s 400 plus foot drop from Worcester, Massachusetts to Pawtucket, Rhode Island meant water power. At Pawtucket, a Mr. Slater founded the first Cotton Mill in the United States, the very first one. The impact of that bit of industrialization on the entire country cannot be over-stated. More on that to come.
Nature has reasserted herself though along the way. Just a bit of research pointed us toward River Bend Farm in Uxbridge, Massachusetts, less than twenty-miles away. River Bend is actually a state park, managed by the Massachusetts Division of Conservation and Recreation, though it is affiliated with the Blackstone River Valley National Heritage Corridor which is under the management of the National Park Service. It is perhaps ten to fifteen miles long. It runs along a stretch of the Blackstone River and the Blackstone Canal itself, parts of which at this location are still clearly visible. This is an image of the Canal from new the Visitor Center there.
The Canal Barges were propelled, or rather pulled along, by horses that trod along the tow path you can see to the right. In places, the Canal and River intermingle, as seems to be the case here at the Arch Bridge approximately half mile north.
But what about that 400 foot drop from Worcester to Providence? The Canal required a series of locks to make the journey possible. Here is the Goat Hill Lock, one of the few remaining that is still largely visible.
A barge would enter the lock and a door shut behind it. There was also a door shut in front. Water would be pumped out or in to the lock depending upon the direction the barge was heading. The water level would reach that of the next leg of the journey and the door in front would open, allowing the barge to carry on. This lock is ten feet wide. That is not the pathway for flowing water, that is the entire lock, meaning that the barges were all less than ten feet wide. All that, and it was still cheaper than sending goods over land, evidently considerably cheaper. The barge then moved ahead into an area of the Canal or River such as this.
Obviously, no passing in the lock. However, on the good side, very little need for a GPS. More to come.